From Seoul, I flew to Tokyo to continue my trip to the Far East. It was the Autumn of 2019 and the plan was to spend a month in Japan, volunteering and visiting the country.
I visited Tokyo two times, at the beginning and the end of the trip. The first time I was there 4 days and two Japanese guys hosted me, the second 3 days and I booked a capsule hostel.
I liked Tokyo, it is a huge city, and I have the feeling that I should have spent more time there, but I preferred to spend my time around Japan visiting as much as it was possible.
Japan is a nation steeped in tradition, fascinating with its blend of ancient culture and modern advancements. Its rich history, spanning centuries of samurai honour and imperial reigns, is juxtaposed with cutting-edge technology, exemplified by its bullet trains and neon-lit skyscrapers.
Japanese cuisine delights the senses, from delicate sushi to hearty ramen, reflecting a deep respect for ingredients and culinary skillfulness. The country's devotion to perfection extends beyond the kitchen, evident in its meticulous gardens, and precise craftsmanship in arts like pottery and calligraphy.
As one of the world's most populous and dynamic cities, Tokyo dazzles with its towering skyscrapers, bustling streets, and neon-lit districts like Shinjuku and Shibuya, where the pulse of urban life never fades.
Tokyo preserves its rich cultural heritage in historic neighbourhoods like Asakusa, and its serene oases, such as the tranquil gardens of the Imperial Palace and Ueno Park.
From Narita airport, I arrived directly at Shinjuku station where Saito was waiting for me, he hosted me for two nights, and he showed me this famous part of the city and suggested where to eat, thanks to him I learned about the Japanese Curry. Because he is a model and in the following days he was supposed to have a shooting in his house I had to find another accommodation, and Shinnosuke helped me.
Shinnosuke is a DJ and he invited me to one of his DJ sets, it was a cool party. After that with his friend, we went to an izakaya to drink and eat together. He told me that drinks are expensive in bars, so they usually go to these kinds of places for drinking. I still remember that one of his friends ordered honey pizza, I think I don’t have to add more.
The first place I visited was Ueno Park, which is a verdant oasis steeped in history and cultural significance. Spanning over 52 ha (130 ac), this expansive park offers also a wealth of cultural attractions, including the Tokyo National Museum, showcasing a vast collection of Japanese art and artefacts spanning thousands of years and the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum exhibits both traditional and contemporary works of art.
I liked Ueno Park's picturesque ponds and tranquil temples, it is a place that offers peaceful retreats amidst the urban hustle.
One of these temples is Shinobazunoike Benten-do, a historic Shinto shrine, founded over 1,300 years ago, and is revered for its picturesque setting amidst the scenic Shinobazu Pond, where lotus flowers bloom in vibrant hues during the summer months.
One of the most famous neighbourhoods of Tokyo is Asakusa, wandering through the lantern-lit streets, historic buildings and quaint alleyways you can sense the echoes of past centuries. At its heart lies Senso-ji, Tokyo's oldest and most revered Buddhist temple, Senso-ji stands as a venerable symbol of Japanese spirituality and cultural heritage.
The approach to Senso-ji is marked by the iconic Kaminarimon Gate, adorned with a massive red lantern and flanked by statues of fierce guardian gods. Beyond the gate lies Nakamise-dori, a bustling street lined with traditional shops selling an array of souvenirs, snacks, and handicrafts, leading visitors to the temple's main hall.
At the heart of Senso-ji stands the Hondo, or main hall, where worshippers come to pay their respects to the enshrined deity, Kannon, the goddess of mercy. The temple's richly adorned architecture, intricate woodwork, and colourful pagoda create a captivating atmosphere that evokes a sense of reverence and awe.
The area surrounding Senso-ji is a vibrant hub of activity, where people come to pay homage to the temple, partake in traditional rituals, and savour the flavours of authentic Japanese cuisine at the myriad of restaurants and izakayas.
In one of these izakayas I had a delicious ramen, those are the kind of place you see in movies: small, where clients sit at the counter and the chef cooks behind it. I ate this ramen with a friend from the volunteer camp I did during my trip, and walking around Asakusa we found a sake place that was doing a free sake tasting. I didn’t know there were so many different types of sake, sweet, dry, fruity, strong, mild, and more, we tried so many that we were almost drunk.
Later, I went to the Tokyo Skytree, which pierces the city skyline as a symbol of Tokyo's innovation and ambition. Standing at the height of 634 meters (2,080 feet), it holds the title of the tallest tower in the world and the second tallest structure overall, surpassed only by the Burj Khalifa in Dubai.
Completed in 2012, the Tokyo Skytree serves as a broadcasting tower, however, it is also a major tourist attraction, drawing millions of visitors annually to its observation decks, shopping complex, and dining establishments.
From the observation decks, located at heights of 350 and 450 meters, you are treated to panoramic views of Tokyo and beyond, offering breathtaking vistas of the sprawling metropolis.
I went there in the late evening, and I recommend visiting the Tokyo Skytree because the emotion that I had there seeing the landscape was indescribable, the ticket is expensive but it was worth the experience.Â
It is possible to have a panoramic view also from the Tokyo Tower, inspired by the Eiffel Tower in Paris, this iconic structure rises 333 meters (1,093 feet), captivating everyone with its graceful silhouette and orange-and-white lattice design.
Completed in 1958, the Tokyo Tower initially served as a broadcasting antenna, but it quickly became a beloved landmark and tourist attraction, offering panoramic views of Tokyo from its observation decks located at heights of 150 and 250 meters.
Despite the novelty of the Tokyo Skytree, the Tokyo Tower remains an enduring symbol of the city's spirit and cultural heritage. I didn't go to the observation desks of the Tokyo Tower, the price is similar to the Tokyo Skytree and I preferred to go to this one.
On a rainy day, Shinosuke suggested I visit the Edo-Tokyo Museum which stands as a window into the rich history and culture of Japan's capital city. This museum offers a journey through time, tracing the evolution of Tokyo from its humble beginnings as the fishing village of Edo to the bustling metropolis it is today. Unfortunately, I don’t have pictures of it but I can tell you that it is a futuristic building designed to resemble an elevated warehouse.
During the period I was in Japan there was the coronation of the new Emperor Naruhito, but I wasn’t in Tokyo while there was the parade and the ceremony, it would have been amazing to assist and take some pictures. One of the consequences of the coronation was that the Imperial Palace in Tokyo was closed to the public, as you can imagine it is the primary residence of the Emperor of Japan and the symbolic heart of the nation's monarchy.
An iconic place is the Shibuya Crossing, renowned as the "busiest intersection in the world," a symbol of Tokyo's bustling energy and urban vitality. Situated in the heart of the Shibuya district, this iconic pedestrian crossing attracts with its bustling crowds and synchronized movement. Towering skyscrapers and vibrant billboards provide a striking backdrop to this dynamic scene, encapsulating the essence of modern Tokyo.
Not far from Shibuya, Yoyogi Park spans over 130 acres. This expansive green space is a beloved recreational hub, with its lush landscapes, tranquil ponds, and shaded walking paths.
Originally the site of the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, Yoyogi Park boasts a rich history and a diverse array of attractions. One of the park's highlights is the Meiji Shrine, a serene sanctuary dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken.
Approaching the shrine, you are greeted by towering torii gates and a tranquil forest of towering cedar trees, creating a sense of reverence and tranquillity. The shrine's main complex, with its elegant architecture and serene atmosphere, invites visitors to pause and reflect amidst the beauty of nature.Â
In February of the same year, I went to Morocco and on an excursion to the Merzouga desert I met Shinji, a Japanese guy living in Munich, Germany. On that excursion, I told him I was thinking of travelling to Japan that year and coincidentally, we were in Tokyo in the same period. He offered me a delicious dinner in a nice restaurant near Tokyo station, with an amazing view of the Rainbow Bridge.
It was a nice coincidence to be able to see him again, we had a nice talk and he told me a lot about his culture, for example how important still is the figure of the emperor for Japan and in that particular moment, how it was a tragedy he died. I discovered that the emperor holds a special place in the hearts of the Japanese people.
I enjoyed the time I spent in Tokyo, I met nice people and I saw amazing places, but I have the feeling that I did not understand the city and I missed something, I would love to go back and spend more time there to fill up this gap.
From Tokyo, I flew to Kagoshima on the Kyshu island in the south of Japan, from there I took a bus and a train to reach Minamata where I had a two-week volunteer camp, but I will tell you about this in the next post.
See you soon,
Flavio
I lived in Seoul for 10 years and I never took the 2-hour flight to Tokyo. I regret it now.
You’ve probably seen it already, but I love Sofia Coppola’s acclaimed film ‘Lost in Translation’. It’s set in Tokyo and catches the confusing/ecstatic disorientation of spending time in such a different country/culture.