A day trip to Siracusa, Sicily

Island of Ortigia, Siracusa Cathedral, and a bathe at Cala Rossa.

In November 2023, just before my adventure in Malaysia, I went to Catania in Sicily with my girlfriend to celebrate her birthday. She wanted to travel to Italy for her birthday and on the way to find nice weather I decided to go to the south, I have friends in Catania, and I had never been there so I thought it could be a nice destination.

We spent 4 days there, on Friday and Monday we explored Catania, on Saturday we went to Taormina and on Sunday to Siracusa. I already talked about Catania and Taormina, now I will describe Sunday’s excursion in Siracusa.

From Catania, we went to Siracusa by bus which is a 2.5-hour ride. As we did for Taormina, we bought the tickets online and departed from the central bus terminal. Also here the frequency of the busses was hourly, and as it is common in Italy, our bus was late.

Siracusa is a historic city on the eastern coast of Sicily with a rich heritage dating back to ancient times. Founded by Greek Corinthians in 734 BC, it became one of the most powerful and influential Greek colonies in the Mediterranean.

The city is divided into two main parts: the archaeological park on the mainland, known as the Neapolis Archaeological Park, and the island of Ortigia, the historical centre of Siracusa. The Neapolis Archaeological Park is home to impressive ancient ruins, including the well-preserved Greek Theater, the Roman Amphitheater, and the Ear of Dionysius, a limestone cave known for its remarkable acoustic properties.

We mainly visited Ortigia island, which took us about 20 minutes to reach from the bus stop. On our walk from the bus stop to the island, we got to enjoy a glimpse of the architecture and life of Siracusa.

Ortigia is a charming island connected to the mainland by bridges. It is a labyrinth of narrow streets, historic buildings, and picturesque squares. Steeped in rich history and surrounded by the Ionian Sea, Ortigia is a treasure trove of ancient ruins and Baroque architecture.

One of the most prominent features of Ortigia is the Piazza del Duomo, a picturesque square dominated by the magnificent Siracusa Cathedral.

Wandering through the labyrinthine streets of Ortigia, you can encounter historical landmarks such as the Temple of Apollo, one of the oldest Doric temples in Sicily, and the Fountain of Arethusa, a freshwater spring surrounded by lush vegetation. According to Greek mythology, the nymph Arethusa transformed into the spring to escape the river god Alpheus.

When we crossed a bridge and arrived in Ortigia the first thing we did was visit an outdoor market in front of the Temple of Apollo, we looked for possible souvenirs and gifts to buy. After that, we randomly strolled around Ortigia's charming streets which are lined with artisan shops, seafood restaurants, and cafes.

Our stroll was not casual, because the main destination was the Siracusa Cathedral or the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which is a magnificent religious edifice. Originally an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Athena, the site was later transformed into a Christian church during the Byzantine era.

Due to subsequent renovations and modifications over the centuries, the cathedral's current structure predominantly reflects Norman and Baroque architectural styles. Its facade showcases a blend of these influences, featuring intricate detailing, columns, and sculptures.

The interior is equally impressive, with a nave and aisles adorned with art, frescoes, and notable sculptures. Unfortunately, the cathedral was closed so we couldn’t see it inside. The weather was amazing and our goal for the day was to find a beach to bathe and relax there, the first one we found was in Cala Rossa.

Spiaggia di Cala Rossa is a small and picturesque beach known for its clear turquoise waters and scenic surroundings. Despite its relatively modest size, Cala Rossa is a popular spot for locals and tourists seeking a tranquil escape and a refreshing dip in the sea.

The beach gets its name, which translates to "Red Cove" in English, from the warm hues of the surrounding rocks and cliffs, especially during the sunset when the sunlight bathes the area in a reddish glow.

The intimate setting and the crystal-clear waters create a charming atmosphere, it was the ideal place for relaxation, and we enjoyed it a lot. We bathed and were able to see a lot of fish and crabs in the water, we took pleasure in the sun and the good weather. When the sun went down we had to leave the beach because the shadow of the buildings came to Cala Rossa, so we decided to continue our visit and walk to Castello Maniace.

Castello Maniace is a historic fortress that stands as a testament to the city's medieval military architecture. Built in the 13th century, the castle is named after the Byzantine general George Maniakes, who played a key role in the region's history during the 11th century.

The fortress exhibits a robust and imposing structure, characterized by massive stone walls, a cylindrical tower, and sturdy battlements. Over the years, Castello Maniace has served multiple functions, including as a prison and military barracks.

Nowadays, the castle is open to the public, allowing visitors to explore its historic corridors, climb its towers, and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding sea and city. On Sundays, the fortress is open only in the morning and when we arrived there it was closed. On the day of our visit it was very windy so I don’t have many pictures of it, just the one above where you can see a piece of it on the right.

We continued our exploration of Ortigia Island going to Marina di Ortigia and Lungomare Alfeo. The first one is a small harbour located on the eastern side of the island, providing a beautiful setting with fishing boats, yachts, and colourful buildings lining the waterfront.

Lungomare Alfeo is the scenic promenade that stretches along the coastline of Ortigia, offering breathtaking views of the Ionian Sea. It is adorned with charming cafes, restaurants, and gelaterias, inviting people to relax and savour the maritime atmosphere. Here we stopped for a late lunch, we found a nice restaurant a bit far from the promenade but still with a nice view and, most importantly, quite cheap. Travelling and having foreign friends I discovered that eating a whole pizza is a normal thing to do for Italians, but not for the rest of the world, so in Siracusa, we shared a pizza and an octopus salad, I love octopus salad!

The connection between Castello Maniace, Marina di Ortigia, Fonte Aretusa and Lungomare Alfeo creates a captivating route that I suggest to do. It is a nice walk and whether you are enjoying a waterfront meal, taking a leisurely walk along the promenade, or simply admiring the view, these coastal attractions offer a serene escape and an opportunity to appreciate the coastal charm of Ortigia island.

After lunch, we walked around a bit checking out some shops on the way to buy the last souvenirs and then took the bus back to Catania for dinner.

I didn’t know much about Siracusa and Ortigia Island, and I usually don’t plan much my trips ahead. Knowing that we missed to see a lot of things, one day is not enough. I have to say that Ortigia Island impressed me positively, it is a very beautiful place, where you can enjoy the sea and relax, at the same time discover historical landmarks. The Siracusa Cathedral and Cala Rossa are worth the visit, a plus was that in the period we were there there weren’t many tourists so we were able to enjoy better our visit.

This was a wonderful birthday trip for my girlfriend and a special one for me. As an Italian living abroad, it was a good opportunity to discover my own country with the eyes of a local and the enthusiasm of a tourist.

This is the last part of this series about Sicily, next week I write about another place I went to recently, very far from Italy.

See you soon

Flavio