Back together in Istanbul

Uncovering new corners of a timeless city

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As I wrote in the previous post, Fernanda and I spent Valentine’s Day in Istanbul a month ago. In total, we spent 4 days in the city and visited Istanbul because we met there. Last November, I left Ecuador alone because Fernanda needed a new residence permit to return to Europe, so we spent 3 months apart before she was able to obtain it. Since she was transferring in Istanbul on her way back to Europe, we decided to meet up there and spend some days in this beautiful city.

Istanbul is a city where continents, cultures, and centuries converge. As Turkey's largest city and once the capital of three empires (the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman), Istanbul is a living museum with layers of history at every turn. Stretching across two continents, it is divided by the shimmering Bosphorus Strait, which separates the European and Asian sides, offering stunning waterfront views and a constant flow of ferries, fishing boats, and cargo ships.

Founded as Byzantium and later known as Constantinople, Istanbul's history spans over 2,500 years. The city’s landmarks tell the story of its imperial past: the majestic Hagia Sophia, first a cathedral, then a mosque, then a museum, and now again a mosque; the Blue Mosque with its six minarets and intricate Iznik tiles; and the Topkapı Palace, once home to Ottoman sultans with its treasure-filled rooms and stunning views of the Bosphorus. The ancient Hippodrome still echoes the chariot races of Byzantine times, while the Theodosian Walls remind visitors of the city’s strategic importance.

Istanbul’s food scene is a feast for the senses. Start your day with a Turkish breakfast of simit, olives, cheeses, and menemen (scrambled eggs with tomatoes and peppers). For lunch, try balık ekmek (fish sandwiches) by the Galata Bridge or kebabs and pide in a bustling lokanta. Dessert is a must—whether it’s baklava, Turkish delight, or künefe, paired with strong Turkish coffee.

The city’s markets are an adventure in themselves. The Grand Bazaar, one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world, has over 4,000 shops selling everything from carpets to spices. Nearby, the Spice Bazaar fills the air with the aroma of saffron, sumac, and dried fruits. Wandering these labyrinths is an essential Istanbul experience.

I arrived in Istanbul before Fernanda, but due to the poor weather, I didn’t explore much of the city. On our first day together, we visited the places I mentioned earlier. Our accommodation was in Sultanahmet, so Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Grand Bazaar were nearby and easy to reach. Even if it wasn’t the first time, I enjoyed seeing these places, I think I will never get tired.

Afterwards, we decided to go to Karaköy, one of Istanbul’s oldest and most dynamic neighborhoods, which sits along the Golden Horn and is just a short walk from the Galata Bridge. Once a bustling hub of trade during the Byzantine and Ottoman eras, Karaköy has transformed into a vibrant mix of trendy cafés, art galleries, boutiques, and historic landmarks. This fusion of the old and the new makes it one of the city’s most exciting areas to explore.

Historically known as Galata, Karaköy has always been a commercial center, home to merchants, bankers, and shipbuilders. During the Byzantine era, it was a thriving Genoese colony, and under the Ottomans, it continued to flourish as a multicultural district with a mix of Jewish, Greek, Armenian, and Levantine communities. Traces of this rich past are visible in its neoclassical buildings, synagogues, and warehouses now converted into art spaces and restaurants.

We crossed the bridge and went directly to the Galata Tower, built by the Genoese in 1348. This iconic medieval stone tower offers panoramic views of Istanbul. From there, we went to a soup restaurant for dinner, and after, we had a walk between the streets of Karaköy, a canvas of urban art with colorful murals and graffiti on many buildings. The narrow streets and hidden passages are perfect for wandering and discovering unexpected art.

Karaköy’s charm lies in its eclectic mix of history, art, and contemporary culture. From exploring hidden alleys and savouring the city’s finest baklava to enjoying art and nightlife, Karaköy offers a complete Istanbul experience that is vibrant, diverse, and endlessly captivating.

The day after was Valentine’s Day, and we went to Princess’ Islands. On the last day, it was rainy, but we managed to see the Spice Bazaar and after Fener and Balat, two of Istanbul’s most historic and picturesque neighborhoods, nestled along the Golden Horn on the city’s European side. Known for their cobbled streets, colorful Ottoman-era houses, and a rich multicultural past, these districts offer a glimpse into a different side of Istanbul, one where Greek, Jewish, and Armenian communities once flourished side by side. Wandering through Fener and Balat feels like stepping into a living history book, with every corner revealing charming cafés, ancient churches, and hidden courtyards.

Fener was historically the center of Istanbul’s Greek Orthodox community and housed the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople, which remains active today. During Byzantine and Ottoman times, it was home to wealthy Greek merchants and officials.

Balat, adjacent to Fener, was traditionally the Jewish quarter. After the Spanish Inquisition in 1492, Sephardic Jews found refuge here, establishing synagogues, schools, and vibrant markets.

It was my first time visiting this part of Istanbul. We decided just to walk around these districts, amazed by the colorful houses and streets; in particular, the sloping streets of Fener and Balat are lined with Ottoman houses painted in bright shades of pink, blue, yellow, and green. Walking on one of these sloping streets, we randomly saw Phanar Greek Orthodox College (Red School); this towering red-brick building, built in 1881, still functions as a school for the Greek community.

Walking around, we saw that these districts were hubs of cozy, artsy cafés serving Turkish coffee, tea, and homemade pastries. The area is also a treasure trove of vintage stores, second-hand bookshops, and antiques.

Fener and Balat have the ability to weave together history, culture, and daily life effortlessly. These neighborhoods offer an authentic Istanbul experience far from the tourist crowds of Sultanahmet. It’s a place to get lost, take photos, and uncover the city’s hidden stories.

What I love about Istanbul is its ability to bridge worlds, not just Europe and Asia, but past and present, tradition and modernity. The call to prayer echoes alongside the buzz of trams; ancient mosques stand beside chic galleries. This seamless blend gives Istanbul its unique character, a city that never ceases to surprise and inspire.

See you soon,

Flavio