Things to do in Israel, Masada

Five days in Israel in February, Palestine Bethlehem, Masada and the Dead Sea

Israel

I visited Israel in February 2020, I usually travel during this period to give myself a gift, my birthday is at the end of January. In 2019 I went to Morocco, in 2022 I was in Amsterdam and this year (2023) I was in Belgrade. Another reason is that travel is cheaper this month. This time I travelled with an Arminian friend.

In the previous post, I talked about the two main cities of Israel, Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, now I want to share pictures of my trip to Bethlehem in Palestine and still a bit of the old town in Jerusalem and the excursion to the Dead Sea and Masada.

Palestine

Palestine is a region in the eastern Mediterranean, located in the Middle East. It holds historical and cultural significance and is at the centre of a complex and longstanding political conflict. The region encompasses territories that include the West Bank, Gaza Strip, and East Jerusalem.

Palestine has a rich and diverse history that spans thousands of years. Various civilizations, including the Canaanites, Philistines, Hebrews, Romans, and Ottomans have inhabited it. Throughout history, Palestine has been associated with the rise and fall of empires and the convergence of different cultures.

Palestine's rich cultural heritage is evident in its traditions, music, cuisine, and art. Traditional Palestinian embroidery, known as tatreez, is renowned for its intricate designs and craftsmanship. Palestinian cuisine features flavoursome dishes such as falafel, hummus, and maqluba, showcasing the region's culinary diversity.

We went to Palestine on Saturday, Israelian buses on that day do not work because of the Shabbath, so we used a Palestinian one. I have an unpleasant but at the same time funny story about this trip. We took this bus from the Damascus gate in the old town Jerusamen, at the exact moment the bus left the platform I had this moment when I realized that I didn’t have with me the passport. When I said it to my friend she answered: “Please tell me that you are joking!”. I asked the driver if it was possible to stop somewhere to let me get out and go to take the passport, I will have reached my friend in Bethlehem, and the driver answered me with a question: ” Do you have any documents with you?”, and I said that I have my Italian ID card, he answered: ”Then no problem just pretend that you are a stupid tourist that doesn’t know that it is necessary to have the passport to cross the wall!” and that’s what I did.

Going to Palestine we crossed the wall without stopping but coming back I knew that there would have been a checkpoint. The routine is that Palestinians have to get off the bus, do the documents check and get back to the bus after they cross the border, for the others the soldiers get on the bus to check the documents. I was sure that I would have had trouble but I tried to look like a stupid tourist and it worked. There were two soldiers, one checking documents and one with a rifle supporting the other, the first one asked me for the passport I gave her the ID, and she looked at me badly and asked again for the passport, then I said: “Passport!? I didn’t know that I need it! I don’t have it with me, I have only the ID, I’m sorry!” and other stupid things that I don’t remember, she said nothing, she gave me back the ID and went to the next person. My friend said she was ready to run to the host house to get my passport and come back to save me. I felt scared and at the same time very lucky, I think the fact that I am European saved me.

Anyway, I enjoyed Palestine, the people, and the atmosphere, and I felt that people there, even if they suffer, can be friendly, smile and enjoy life more than what we do in Europe.

Bethlehem

Bethlehem, a city located in the West Bank, holds immense religious significance and is renowned as the birthplace of Jesus Christ. Situated just south of Jerusalem, Bethlehem is a place of pilgrimage for Christians from around the world.

The focal point of Bethlehem is the Church of the Nativity, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the oldest Christian churches in existence. It is believed to stand on the spot where Jesus was born, and its grotto holds the Nativity Cave, where Jesus is said to have been laid in a manger. The church's Byzantine and Crusader-era architecture, along with its exquisite mosaics and religious icons, create a captivating atmosphere for worshippers and visitors alike.

The bus brought us to Bayt Jala and then we walked to Bethlehem. It was a 2 km walk through a market or a local shopping area. It was an amazing experience a glimpse into the vibrant Palestinian culture and way of life. The city's bustling markets, or souks, showcase a variety of local products, including intricately embroidered textiles, olive wood carvings, and flavorful spices. We weren’t able to decide what to taste between several traditional Palestinian dishes, such as musakhan (roasted chicken with sumac and caramelized onions) or maqluba (a fragrant rice and vegetable dish), or the more known hummus and falafel.

In Bethlehem, we went to see the nativity church, and just randomly we had the opportunity to meet a priest from the Armenian part of the church, and because I was travelling with an Armenian friend we had a "VIP" tour of the church, for example, we went on the rooftop. My friend realised that a part of the church is Armenian (the other parts are catholic and greek orthodox) and because there were a lot of people she wanted to ring the door of the Armenian part of the church, where the priests live, and see if she was able to talk with someone, while I was saying to her that it was a bad idea a priest came out from the door and my friend immediately talked to him and that’s how the magic happened.

Something I never imagined could happen was to see the deacon ringing the bells on the rooftop before the service. Of course, we went also to the service, and after it, a priest showed us the nativity church: Catholic, Greek and Armenian parts. This is only because I have an amazing friend.

There are three families living in the Armenian part of the Nativity Church, hosted by the priests. Visiting the church with the tour offered by the priest I saw kids playing, like the one in the picture, and it makes me think that not all the children in this area are lucky to live that kind of childhood, and also what it would be grow up in a church.

A thing that I didn’t know is that the wall that determine the border between Israel and Palestine became a tourist attraction, how a wall could be? When we arrived in Bayt Jala there were a lot of people offering tours to the wall. I was feeling sad about it but also interested because in some way I was able to see it, and maybe understand the situation a bit, understand from something that I was reading about but never faced directly.

Banksy did a famous graffiti on the wall, and also this walled-off hotel in the picture. I think it is possible to sleep there with the view of the wall, anyway inside you can learn about the conflict and Palestine. 

Jerusalem Old City

I imagined the old city big, like all of Jerusalem; I was shocked when I saw how small it is (1 square km). Inside it, there are several sites of key religious importance: the temple mount and western wall for Jews, the church of holy sepulchre for Christians, the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa mosque for Muslims. Since 1981 it is a UNESCO world heritage site. 

The day after, one of the first things we went to see in the old city was the church of the holy sepulchre. Like it was for the western wall I was impressed by the devotion of the people, and I felt the holiness of the place and how it was important for the observant.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is believed to encompass the locations where Jesus Christ was crucified, buried, and resurrected, making it the holiest Christian pilgrimage destination in the world.

A significant feature within the church is the Stone of Anointing, a marble slab believed to be the spot where the body of Jesus was prepared for burial. Visitors often touch the stone with reverence and prayer.

I sat down for a while inside the church because my Armenian friend was talking with a priest, and I was observing people lighting candles, touching the stone, and praying, it was an interesting moment for me.

After we went to the Muslim quarter searching for food, in my opinion, the best food was there. We tried to go to the Temple Mount to see the dome on the rock and the Al-Aqsa mosque but we couldn’t because there were only specific times when it is possible to enter. The only possibility was to find a panoramic point to see the famous golden dome of the mosque.

The Temple Mount is one of the most revered and contested religious sites in the world. It holds profound significance for three major monotheistic religions: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam.

The Temple Mount serves as a symbol of unity and division, illustrating the profound connections and conflicts that intertwine in the heart of the Old City of Jerusalem. It remains a sacred place of pilgrimage and prayer for millions, carrying the weight of centuries of religious history and spiritual significance. 

After we went again to the western wall. It was an opportunity to see it in a less crowded situation than the Shabbat: this time I was able to wear the kippah and go close to the wall. It was a Sunday, and it was incredible to see how many people were praying, and it surprise me to see young people there.

At the wall there are separate areas for men and women, this is more a political decision, to bring the rule from the synagogue to the wall, for sure before 1967 was normal to pray all together at the wall. 

Masada

Masada is an ancient fortress situated on a dramatic plateau overlooking the Dead Sea in Israel. It holds immense historical and archaeological significance, symbolizing both Jewish resistance and the tragic events that unfolded during the Roman Empire's rule.

Masada gained worldwide attention due to the events that unfolded during the First Jewish-Roman War in the late first century CE. After the fall of Jerusalem, Jewish rebels known as the Zealots took refuge in Masada, with an estimated 960 individuals seeking sanctuary within its walls.

The Romans laid siege to Masada for several months, in 73 CE, after realizing that the fortress would soon fall to the Roman forces, the Jewish defenders made a fateful decision. Rather than surrendering to their enemies, they chose mass suicide, with each person taking their own life rather than facing capture or enslavement.

We went to Masada on an organised trip from Jerusalem, the trip brought us also to Ein Gedi and the Dead Sea. The fortress is a must-see, what you can see from the top is amazing, something that you can't forget, a breathtaking panoramic view of the surrounding desert and the Dead Sea.

Masada is part of the Judaean desert, it is in Israel and the West Bank that lies east of Jerusalem and descends to the Dead Sea. Major urban areas in the region include Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Jericho and Hebron.

The cliff of Masada is a horst. Herod built a 4 m high casemate wall around the plateau totalling 1,3 km in length, reinforced by many towers. The natural approaches to the fortress are very difficult to navigate. The ruins of the palace complex, including Herod's luxurious palaces, Roman-era baths, storerooms, and fortifications, offer a glimpse into the grandeur of the past.

Masada's inclusion as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001 further underscores its cultural and historical significance.

Ein Gedi

Ein Gedi is an oasis located in the Judean Desert along the western shore of the Dead Sea in Israel. It is renowned for its natural beauty, abundant springs, and lush vegetation, creating a stark contrast to the surrounding arid desert landscape.

The oasis of Ein Gedi is fed by several freshwater springs, making it a haven for diverse plant and animal life. The area boasts numerous hiking trails that allow visitors to explore its stunning landscapes, including waterfalls, streams, and hidden pools. The opportunity to immerse oneself in the refreshing waters of the springs is a highlight of a visit to Ein Gedi.

One of the most popular attractions within the reserve is the David Stream, where visitors can hike through lush vegetation, wade in shallow pools, and discover beautiful waterfalls. The Wadi Arugot trail takes visitors through a stunning canyon, offering opportunities for swimming and enjoying the breathtaking scenery.

We did a small hike in the reserve, we followed a route and walked randomly enjoying nature, plants, animals, and waterfalls. The first thing that we found in the park was a pond with a waterfall, I enjoyed putting my feet in the water and getting some sunshine.

Following the path we arrived to see a big waterfall, it's one of the main things to see in this park, I’m still fascinated by this small area of nature where around it there is the desert. A nice thing about this park is that you can have a nice view of the Dead Sea and feel the contrast between the life of the oasis and the “dead” of the Dead Sea. Unfortunately, with the organised trip, we didn't have time to go to the highest point of the oasis and have the best view.

Dead Sea

The Dead Sea, located in the Jordan Rift Valley between Israel and Jordan, is a unique natural wonder renowned for its remarkable properties and significance. It is known for being the lowest point on Earth, with its shores lying approximately 430 meters (1,410 feet) below sea level.

The Dead Sea's name reflects its high salt content, making it one of the saltiest bodies of water on the planet. The incredibly dense water allows individuals to float effortlessly on its surface.

The water and mud of the sea are rich in minerals such as magnesium, calcium, potassium, and bromine, which are believed to have therapeutic properties. Many people visit the Dead Sea to indulge in its mineral-rich mud, which is said to have rejuvenating effects on the skin.

Due to its extreme saltiness, the Dead Sea is unable to support marine life, hence its name.

The last part of the organised trip brought us to the Dead Sea, on a beach resort where we had the opportunity to float and to do skin care with the mud, my friend was able to take some of it at home. We passed some hours there relaxing and eating something after we went back to Jerusalem stopping at some panoramic views.

It is important to note that the water level of the Dead Sea has been decreasing in recent decades due to human activities and natural factors, this is visible in the pictures above. Efforts are being made to address this issue and preserve this remarkable natural wonder for future generations.

When back to Jerusalem we went directly to the airport, where we had several security checks and also an interrogation, everything went smoothly but it takes a lot of time.

It was an interesting trip, with a lot of things to talk about, I would go back to Palestine because I would understand better the situation, and in general, I would visit the middle east again, like Jordan, Lebanon, and Armenia.