Things to do in Israel, Tel Aviv

Five days in Israel in February, Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.

Israel

I visited Israel in February 2020, I usually travel during this period to give myself a gift, my birthday is at the end of January. In 2019 I went to Morocco, in 2022 I was in Amsterdam and this year (2023) I was in Belgrade. Another reason is that travel is cheaper this month. This time I travelled with an Arminian friend.

Israel is a country located in the Middle East. It shares borders with Lebanon to the north, Syria to the northeast, Palestine to the east, and Egypt to the southwest. The Mediterranean Sea lies to its west. Established in 1948, Israel is a relatively young nation, but it has a rich and complex history that stretches back thousands of years.

Israel holds significant religious and historical importance for three major world religions: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. It is regarded as the biblical homeland of the Jewish people, with Jerusalem as its holiest city. The country's diverse population includes Jews, Arabs, Christians, Druze, and other minorities, contributing to its cultural and ethnic mosaic.

I was really curious about this country: contradictions, religions and history, I tried to learn more about it and satisfied my curiosity.

We stayed one night in Tel Aviv and 3 in Jerusalem and we used couchsurfing to find accommodation. In Tel Aviv, the host was living in the modern part of the city in a skyscraper on the 59th floor, and the view is in the picture. We had a nice experience with both hosts, we shared stories and culture, and it was fun.

Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is a vibrant and cosmopolitan city located on the Mediterranean coast. Often referred to as the "City that Never Sleeps," Tel Aviv is known for its lively atmosphere, stunning beaches, thriving cultural scene, and modern architectural landscape. It stands as the country's economic and technological hub, as well as a major centre for arts, entertainment, and innovation.

The city's urban landscape showcases an impressive array of architectural styles, ranging from Bauhaus and International Style buildings to modern skyscrapers. Tel Aviv's White City, featuring over 4,000 Bauhaus-style buildings, has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, reflecting the city's architectural significance.

We spent the first two days here and I found it a place where it could be nice to live, and whit a lot of different faces: modern, old, American, and Mediterranean at the same time.

First, we walked around Habima Platz, which is in front of the Charles Bronfman Auditorium, a lovely area in the city centre. I found it a meetup place, but also for chill like the guy in the picture is doing. From this square starts Rothschild Boulevard, a street where you can walk and enjoy the nice weather the city offers.

Tel Aviv's open and progressive attitude, along with its welcoming atmosphere, attracts people from diverse backgrounds. It is a city that celebrates diversity and embraces a modern lifestyle while cherishing its historical roots.

Walking in Tel Aviv, in general in Israel, is easy to see soldiers on the street, and like in the picture is easy to see female soldiers. In Israel, the draft is mandatory for men (3 years) and women (1 year), and after that, if necessary they can be called in 48 hours. I have to say that it was a bit strange to see so many soldiers, I’m not used to it.

Old Jaffa

Jaffa, an ancient port city that has been incorporated into the vibrant urban landscape of Tel Aviv, holds a special place in the region's history and culture. Situated on the southern edge of Tel Aviv, Jaffa is a charming neighbourhood that offers a glimpse into the past while embracing the present.

With a history dating back thousands of years, Jaffa has witnessed the rise and fall of civilizations, serving as a significant trading hub and gateway to the Mediterranean. Its old stone alleys, historic buildings, and archaeological sites evoke a sense of timelessness.

One of the most notable landmarks in Jaffa is the Clock Tower, a distinctive Ottoman-era structure that stands as a testament to the neighbourhood's rich history. From its vantage point, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of Tel Aviv's skyline and the sparkling Mediterranean Sea.

We visited Jaffa on a free tour, it was nice, it allowed me to see many things quickly; the meeting point was at the Clock Tower, and from there one of the first places we saw was the view from one of the highest points of Jaffa, Abrasha Park.

The tour was very interesting, Jaffa is full of history and the guide was sharing a lot of information. A thing I learned is how Jaffa changed by the times, from how it was considered a dangerous place to now that is a safe and tourist part of Tel Aviv, probably now it is a bit too devoted to the tourists which can lead to a bit of fake.

Jaffa has a lot of alleys like the one in the picture, it keeps a lot from the Roman period, and it's nice to see the mixture between Christianity, Islam and Judaism architecture, that is where its charm comes from. The neighbourhood showcases a fusion of architectural styles, from ancient structures to Ottoman-era buildings and picturesque courtyards. Strolling through its narrow streets, one can explore art galleries, boutique shops, and vibrant markets that showcase local crafts, spices, and delicious Middle Eastern delicacies.

The end of the tour was at the iconic Jaffa Port, with its picturesque harbour and fishing boats, it is a symbol of the neighbourhood's maritime heritage. Today, it has been transformed into a lively hub of restaurants, cafes, and art spaces. The weather was amazing, and the walk there was simply perfect.

A thing that surprised me was to see a lot of surfers, I didn't know that Tel Aviv is a good place for surfing. The promenade alongside the seaside was lovely because very active: people running, cycling, doing yoga, or just walking, and bars. We decided to enjoy the sunset on the shore, and another thing that surprised me was the number of shells on it, it was since I was a kid, I hadn't seen so many in Italy, and they almost disappeared. 

As you can see from the picture the sunset was really beautiful, with the Mediterranean Sea and Jaffa in the background. From the picture is possible to see a tower that is from the Mahmoudiya mosque and part of the harbour.

The morning after, before moving to Jerusalem, I visited the flea market in Jaffa and the market near it. I love markets and in every place I go I visit the local market, I like to see people in their daily life, what they do, and how they interact with each other.

 Jerusalem

Jerusalem is a place of immense historical, religious, and cultural significance. Nestled in the Judean Mountains between the Mediterranean Sea and the Dead Sea, Jerusalem has been revered for millennia as a holy city by three major world religions: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam.

From Tel Aviv is quite fast to reach Jerusalem, it is possible to go by bus or train, the first one is the cheapest, the second the faster, we chose the first option. The bus station and the train station are in the same building and finding the bus platform was very difficult, there were several floors and a lot of platforms and we lost a lot of time.

I had a different idea about Jerusalem in my mind, more chaotic, less modern, a bit messy, maybe also dangerous and I was wrong. Beyond its historical and religious significance, Jerusalem is also a thriving modern city, with a diverse population.

We were hosted by a girl that lives not far from the old city, reaching her place and waiting to cross a street, I took the picture at the traffic light. I did it because I liked the composition and because I see it also as a family picture.

The host lives near Machaneh Yehudah market, so first she took us there telling us what we should try and where we should go. I loved it, I think it was the most beautiful part of the city or at least the more interesting one. It was Friday afternoon and it was crowded, everybody was shopping for the start of Shabbat because a tradition is to have a family dinner for it and because the shops are closed for 24 hours.
A thing that impressed me about Israel, in general, is the gap between social classes, you can feel it and see it because the difference between one part and another of the same city could be really strong.

Old town

The Old City of Jerusalem, a UNESCO World Heritage site, encapsulates much of the city's historical and religious importance. Enclosed within ancient walls, it is divided into four quarters: the Jewish Quarter, the Christian Quarter, the Muslim Quarter, and the Armenian Quarter. Each quarter boasts its unique architecture, religious landmarks, and vibrant cultural traditions.

The Jewish Quarter is home to the Western Wall, an important site of Jewish pilgrimage and prayer. The Christian Quarter encompasses the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, believed to be the place of Jesus' crucifixion and resurrection. The Muslim Quarter surrounds the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, sacred to Muslims worldwide. The Armenian Quarter showcases the rich heritage of the Armenian Christian community.

After the market, we went to see the Shabbat in the old town, and to the western wall. Walking to it I was feeling that it was an important moment: everybody was quickly going to the wall, dressed up for the occasion. Being at the western wall at the beginning of the Shabbat make made me goosebumps. I'm not a religious person but at that moment I felt the holiness of the place, heard the people reading the Torah and see how that moment was sacred for them it was priceless for me.

Exploring the Old City is like stepping back in time. Its stone-paved streets, ancient architecture, and hidden courtyards evoke a sense of centuries-old traditions. The labyrinthine alleyways, filled with vendors, artisans, and vibrant street life, invite visitors to discover hidden gems and experience the cultural tapestry of the city.

Having my Armenian friend with me gave me a special view of the Armenian quarter. The picture inside the church is in the Armenian church, and I took it the day after at the end of a ceremony for Armenian Valentine's Day (Surb Sargis): according to belief, before going to bed, a lonely girl eats salty biscuits and does not drink water. In her dream, her future husband gives her water.

The Muslim quarter is the one I liked most, probably because of the mix of atmosphere, friendly people, and the good smell of spices and food. In the market near Damascus Gate, there were old ladies selling food on the stairs near the stands, and the food was cheap and delicious. 

In the second part of this post, I will write about what happened when we went to Palestine to visit Bethlehem and the excursion to the dead sea.