Valentine's Day in Istanbul

Istanbul's Asian side: Princes' islands, Büyükada and Kadıköy

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Last February, I spent a few days in Istanbul. It wasn't my first time there, but I am always happy to visit this beautiful city. I will dedicate another article to the reason I was there. In this one, I want to write about Valentine's Day on Princes’ Islands. After spending the 14th of February in Venice last year, in 2025, Fernanda and I used the opportunity to be in Istanbul to visit one of the islands of the city.

The Princes' Islands (Adalar in Turkish) are a group of nine islands in the Sea of Marmara, just off the coast of Istanbul. They are famous for their historic wooden mansions, tranquil atmosphere, and lack of motorized vehicles—only bicycles, electric carts, and horse-drawn carriages (though these have been mostly phased out) are allowed.

The islands were named as such because they were historically used as a place of exile for Byzantine princes and later Ottoman aristocrats. Over time, they became a popular retreat for Istanbul's wealthy, especially the Greek and Jewish communities. Today, they attract both locals and tourists looking for a peaceful escape from the city's hustle.

While there are nine islands, four are the most visited: Büyükada (Big Island), the largest and most popular; Heybeliada, known for its lush greenery; Burgazada, famous for its artistic heritage and peaceful ambiance; Kınalıada, the closest to Istanbul and known for its reddish soil.

We visited Büyükada, and we reached it by ferry from the station at the Galata Bridge, Eminönü. Probably because of the season, the direct ferry from there was not working, so we had to go to Kadıköy and there change for another ferry which goes to the island. The trip takes around 2 hours, and the ferries are part of the public transportation system, and you can use them with the InstanbulKart.

I had never crossed the Bosphorus by ferry before, and it was a great experience. I suggest doing it if you are in Istanbul. As the boat glides between Europe and Asia, you’ll see the city’s stunning skyline with the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapı Palace on one side and the lively streets of Kadıköy and Üsküdar on the other. Seagulls soar overhead while the sound of the ferry horn echoes across the water.

Büyükada is the largest and most famous of the Princes’ Islands. Known for its tranquil atmosphere, Ottoman-era mansions, and stunning views. It has a rich history dating back to Byzantine times, when it was a place of exile for emperors, empresses, and aristocrats. During the Ottoman era, it became a summer retreat for Istanbul’s wealthy communities. In the 20th century, it even hosted political figures like Leon Trotsky, who lived on the island in exile from 1929 to 1933.

For sure, it wasn’t the best time to visit this island, it was cold and empty. I can imagine that in spring and summer it is more alive and more enjoyable, but also crowded with tourists. We wanted to bike around the island; bicycles are the best way to explore it, but the conditions didn’t allow it. We only walked around the area near the ferry terminal, and we enjoyed the cafes, the wooden houses, and the views near the seaside. We had lunch with the famous fish sandwich called "Balık Ekmek", which literally means "fish bread" in Turkish. It consists of grilled fish served in a fresh bread roll with lettuce, onions, and, if you want, a squeeze of lemon.

Despite the season and the cold weather, we enjoyed visiting the island, it was nice to be in a more relaxed environment.

On the way back, we stopped in Kadıköy, one of Istanbul's liveliest and most culturally rich districts, located on the Asian side of the city along the shores of the Marmara Sea. Known for its bohemian atmosphere, bustling markets, trendy cafés, and strong local identity.

Historically known as Chalcedon, Kadıköy is one of Istanbul’s oldest settlements, dating back to at least the 7th century BCE. It was an important Greek colony before becoming part of the Byzantine Empire and later the Ottoman Empire. Today, it is one of Istanbul’s most dynamic districts, blending old-world charm with modern energy.

We spent the evening there, walking around Moda Neighborhood, one of the most beautiful parts of Kadıköy. Moda is a laid-back area with tree-lined streets, cozy cafés, and a seaside promenade perfect for sunset walks or picnics. Kadıköy has one of Istanbul’s best nightlife scenes, with a mix of rock bars, jazz clubs, and rooftop lounges.

We decided to have a break with a Kunefe and a coffee. Künefe is a crispy, syrup-soaked dessert made with phyllo dough and melted cheese and topped with pistachio. Served warm, it’s a perfect mix of crunchy, gooey, and sweet, best enjoyed with Turkish coffee or tea.

After that, we had a fast dinner before taking the metro to the other side of the Bosphorus, back to the European side and our room.

Kadikoy is probably my favourite part of Istanbul; the blend of vibrant street art, historic buildings, and trendy boutiques creates a unique atmosphere. Every corner of Kadıköy feels full of life and character.

This is just one day of our trip; soon, I’ll write about the other three days and explain why Fernanda and I were in Istanbul.

See you soon,

Flavio