A surreal last day in the south of Bolivia

Geysers, thermal baths and Dalí at 4800 MSL!!!

Fernanda and I went on a 3-day tour to the salt flats in Uyuni. In previous posts, I talked about the first day and the Salar, where something very important happened and about the first and the second part of the second day where we visited several lagoons in Eduardo Avaroa National Park and saw thousands of flamingos. On the last day, we had to wake up very early on the way to see geysers, bathe in a spa, and see the valley of the rocks.

On the third and last day of our adventure, we woke up at 5 am on the way to be on the road at 5.30 am to go to Sol de Mañana. It was cold, around -5°C (23 °F), but the conditions were perfect for stargazing.

The Sol de Mañana is a geothermal field located in the southwestern part of Bolivia, near the border with Chile. Situated at an elevation of around 4,850 meters (15,912 feet) above sea level, this area is part of the Altiplano region, one of the highest and most extensive plateaus in the world. The field is renowned for its volcanic activity, geysers, boiling mud pools, and fumaroles, making it a striking natural wonder.

Sol de Mañana is characterized by its fumaroles, which emit jets of steam and gases from beneath the Earth's crust, and boiling mud pools that bubble vigorously due to the intense geothermal heat. Some of the most spectacular features include geysers, which periodically erupt, spewing steam and water into the cold air. These geysers are most active during the early morning (hence the name, which means "Morning Sun" in Spanish), when the cold temperatures cause the steam to rise dramatically into the sky, creating a mystical, almost surreal atmosphere.

The light of the early morning in contrast with this surreal landscape create a unique atmosphere, I enjoyed it a lot despite the cold temperature.

After visiting the geothermal area, we went to a thermal area, where it was possible to bathe in pools with hot water, Fernanda and I didn’t lose the opportunity.

The Polques Hot Springs are set at an elevation of about 4,400 meters (14,435 feet) above sea level, in the shadow of towering mountains and volcanoes. The setting is both serene and dramatic, with panoramic views of the surrounding arid plains, colourful mineral deposits, and distant peaks.

The thermal pools at Polques are fed by underground geothermal activity, which heats the water to a comfortable temperature of around 30-40°C (86-104°F). The pools are naturally occurring but have been slightly enhanced with stone edges to create designated bathing areas for visitors. The water is rich in minerals, making it not only a relaxing experience but also believed to have therapeutic properties that can help with skin and muscle conditions.

Taking a dip in the hot springs is especially popular in the morning or evening when the cold temperatures of the Altiplano create a sharp contrast with the warm, soothing waters. When we arrived it was around 7:30 am, and only Fernanda and I decided to bathe, the others from the group didn’t dare. The experience was surreal, bathing in naturally warm waters while the air outside was cold plus the stunning landscape felt like something from another planet. The isolation and stillness of the environment further enhance the feeling of tranquillity.

Getting out of the pool was difficult because inside there was the perfect temperature and mood. When we got out we didn’t suffer the temperature difference, and there was a small building where it was possible to change.

Left the Polques Hot Springs, we took the directions of the green and white lagoons, but before going there we stopped by another place.

The Desierto de Salvador Dalí is a striking desert landscape. This remote desert sits at an elevation of about 4,800 meters (15,748 feet) above sea level and is known for its otherworldly scenery that evokes the dreamlike and surrealist imagery of the famous Spanish artist Salvador Dalí, after whom the desert is named.

The desert is characterized by its barren, sandy plains and isolated rock formations, which stand starkly against a backdrop of towering, multicoloured mountains. The landscape is almost completely devoid of vegetation, and the vast emptiness of the desert combined with its unusual rock formations creates an eerie, surreal atmosphere, reminiscent of Dalí's surrealist paintings. Although Salvador Dalí never visited this area, the desert's unusual and dreamlike quality led to it being named after him.

The Lagunas Blanca y Verde (White and Green Lagoons) are two stunning high-altitude lakes, set against the dramatic backdrop of the Licancabur Volcano, these twin lagoons are famous for their striking colours, surreal beauty, and the fascinating natural processes that create their distinctive hues, the lagoons sit at an altitude of around 4,300 meters (14,108 feet) above sea level.

The colour of the lagoons can change throughout the day, becoming more intense with the wind, which stirs up the mineral deposits from the bottom of the lagoons and gives the water its signature vivid colours. When we were there the colours were not brilliant, as you can see from the pictures, the green lagoon is not green at all and the white one has a bit of that colour.

From the two lagoons is visible the volcano Licancabur, with a nearly perfect conical shape and a peak that rises to 5,920 meters (19,423 feet) above sea level. The volcano is especially known for its cultural significance, ancient Inca ruins near the summit, and the beautiful landscapes it dominates, including the Lagunas Blanca y Verde at its base.

Even if the lagoons were not colored, and these were the last of a long series of lagoon we saw, the isolation and the silence of the place was something that impressed me.

From the lagoons, we had a long drive to reach the Valle de las Rocas or Valley of the Rocks. This valley is known for its enormous, sculptural rock formations that have been shaped by centuries of wind and weather erosion. The rugged landscape, set against a backdrop of towering mountains and wide, open desert plains, creates an otherworldly scene.

The rocks in El Valle de las Rocas are the result of ancient volcanic activity combined with millennia of wind erosion. Over time, the forces of nature have carved these rocks into unusual shapes, some resembling animals, human figures, or fantastical creatures. The formations are primarily composed of red volcanic rock, which contrasts beautifully with the surrounding arid desert.

One of the most impressive features of the valley is the sheer size of the rock formations. Some of these natural sculptures rise tens of meters above the valley floor, standing like ancient monoliths in the middle of a vast, desolate landscape. The juxtaposition of the enormous rocks against the open, wide skies gives the area a feeling of vastness and timelessness.

We left this incredible place and after a few hours by car, we reached Uyuni where our 3-day tour finished. We spent the evening in the city having dinner before taking a night bus to La Paz and saying goodbye to one of the most beautiful and surreal places I’ve ever seen.

From La Paz, we went back to Cusco, Peru, and from there we travelled to Riobamba, Ecuador, where I am writing now. In this period I’m visiting Ecuador, and soon there will be updates.

See you soon,

Flavio