Hiking Chimborazo

Life in Ecuador, surrounded by epic mountains and active volcanos

I’m writing from Ecuador, It’s been 3 weeks since I’ve been here and I will stay till mid-November. I’m in Riobamaba, the city where my girlfriend’s family live. Riobamba, located in the central highlands of Ecuador, is a charming city steeped in history and surrounded by breathtaking Andean landscapes. It serves as the capital of Chimborazo Province and is a popular gateway for those seeking to explore the nearby Chimborazo Volcano and other natural wonders.

Riobamba is one of Ecuador's oldest cities, originally founded by the Spanish in 1534. After a devastating earthquake in 1797, the city was rebuilt at its current location. It holds great historical importance as the site where Ecuador’s first constitution was signed in 1830, establishing it briefly as the capital of the nascent Ecuadorian Republic. This legacy is reflected in the city's colonial architecture, old churches, and monuments.

With a population of around 150,000, Riobamba has a vibrant mix of urban life and traditional Andean culture. The city enjoys a cool, highland climate due to its elevation of about 2,750 meters (9,022 feet) above sea level. Daytime temperatures are typically mild, ranging from 15 to 20°C (59 to 68°F), while evenings can be quite cool.

I spent these weeks knowing Fernanda’s family, we had dinners and brunches together and celebrated her mother’s birthday. I ate a lot of good food, cooked various Italian dishes for them, and judged what could be the best salchipapa in the city. I learned about the traditions and the local culture. Ecuador is in a difficult socio-political situation but it is a beautiful country, and I like to be here and live here, I love running in the city with the views of all the mountains.

Riobamba’s proximity to the Chimborazo makes it a hub for outdoor activities. Climbers and hikers often use Riobamba as a base for acclimatization before attempting Chimborazo’s summit. Even for those not climbing, the scenic drives to the volcano and surrounding areas offer spectacular views of the Andean highlands.

Beyond Chimborazo, other nearby volcanoes and mountains, such as Carihuairazo, Tungurahua, and El Altar, provide opportunities for trekking, mountaineering, and exploring Ecuador’s high-altitude ecosystems.

A couple of weeks ago, Fernanda's sister suggested we hike Chimborazo, so on a Saturday, Fernanda, her sister's family, and I headed to the volcano.

Chimborazo is a majestic, inactive stratovolcano, it holds particular geographic significance as its summit, reaching 6,310 meters (20,702 feet) above sea level, is the highest point in Ecuador. However, what makes Chimborazo especially unique is that due to the Earth's equatorial bulge, its peak is the farthest point from the centre of the Earth, surpassing even Mount Everest in that regard. Its glaciers have been a critical source of fresh water for local communities, although they are receding due to climate change. Historically, Chimborazo was revered by indigenous peoples, and it continues to hold cultural and spiritual significance.

I couldn’t wait to hike the Chimborazo, Fernanda told me a lot about this volcano and its importance for the locals, and while walking in Riobamba it is visible from everywhere, so I wanted to see it closer.

Hiking on the Chimborazo offers a unique experience with various routes suited to multiple skill levels. Most notably, the Chimborazo ascent is one of the most challenging and rewarding high-altitude hikes. However, there are also more moderate hikes that allow non-climbers to enjoy the breathtaking scenery of this iconic volcano.

From the city by car, firstly we reached the entrance of the park which is at 4350 meters (14271 feet), from there, still by car, we reached the first refuge: Refugio Carrel at 4,850 meters (15,912 feet), which was already the higher altitude I have ever been, from there we started the hike, our goal was to reach the second refuge: Refugio Whymper at 5,000 meters (16,404 feet), during the hike, I had stunning views of Chimborazo’s glaciers, and I experienced high-altitude hiking without technical climbing.

I managed quite well at the high altitude, and I was surprised about it, it was difficult but slowly, with patience, I reached the lodge, and it was very satisfying.

From the refuge, we decided to continue to Laguna Condor Cocha, the hike was a steep ascent of about 100 to 200 meters (328-656 feet). Though relatively short, the thin air and high altitude make it physically demanding.

Laguna Condor Cocha lies at an altitude of approximately 5,100 meters (16,732 feet), making it one of the highest lakes in Ecuador. It is formed by glacial meltwater from Chimborazo’s permanent snowcap and glaciers. The lake is relatively small, but its strikingly clear waters mirror the snow-covered peaks, or I think it should be like this because this is the dry season and there is no lake in this period.

Anyway from there I was rewarded with awe-inspiring views of Chimborazo’s northern glaciers, and something that impressed me was the silence, which at this altitude is profound, broken only by the occasional wind or the the chat of the hikers.

The hike was around 2 hours, round trip, in total we walked 2.7 km, and even if the lake was dry I enjoyed it very much. The lack of vegetation and the rugged, glaciated environment make you feel that you are hiking in a place beyond ordinary human experience.

I can’t wait for the next opportunity to hike somewhere else around Riobamba and explore other places in Ecuador, and write about it.

See you soon

Flavio