A weekend in Catania, Sicily

November in the south of Italy celebrating my girlfriend's birthday and reconnecting with my homeland.

In November 2023, just before my adventure in Malaysia, I went to Catania in Sicily with my girlfriend to celebrate her birthday. She wanted to travel to Italy for her birthday and on the way to find nice weather I decided to go to the south, I have friends in Catania, and I had never been there so I thought it could be a nice destination.

We spent there 4 days, on Friday and Monday we explored Catania, on Saturday we went to Taormina and on Sunday to Siracusa. We found amazing weather, most of the time sunny with temperatures between 15°C and 28°C. I think this period can be good for visiting the south of Italy, the weather can still be warm and there are fewer tourists around.

Catania is a vibrant and historic city located on the eastern coast of Sicily. Nestled between the Ionian Sea and the majestic Mount Etna, Europe's highest and most active volcano, Catania boasts a unique blend of natural beauty and rich cultural heritage.

The city's architecture is a testament to its fascinating history, with Baroque and Sicilian Gothic influences prevalent in its buildings and monuments. The historic city centre is home to landmarks such as the imposing Catania Cathedral, the Fontana dell'Elefante (Elephant Fountain), and the Teatro Massimo Bellini.

I’m from the north of Italy, and the cities there are architecturally and structurally different from the south, also the food and how people behave in the city are not the same. Coming from Budapest, the feeling I had when I landed in Catania was to be at home even if it is different from where I am originally from, which has the weather more similar to Hungary than this part of Italy.

On the arrival day, Friday, we visited Catania’s city centre, the heart of the city is characterized by a maze of narrow streets and historic landmarks, creating a unique atmosphere that reflects the essence of Sicilian life.

The UNESCO-listed historic centre of Catania is dotted with Baroque architecture, which flourished after the devastating earthquake of 1693. The black and white façades made from local lava stone give the city centre a distinctive visual appeal.

Piazza Duomo is the central square and the heart of the historic centre of Catania. Dominated by the imposing Catania Cathedral, dedicated to Saint Agatha, this square is a vibrant and iconic focal point for both locals and visitors.

The Catania Cathedral, or Cattedrale di Sant'Agata, is a magnificent Baroque masterpiece that dominates Piazza Duomo. Its facade is adorned with intricate details and statues. The cathedral houses the relics of Saint Agatha, the city's patron saint, and its interior is a rich display of art and religious history.

Surrounding the square, you'll find other remarkable buildings, including the Palazzo dei Chierici and the Fontana dell'Elefante (Elephant Fountain). The latter features an elephant statue of lava stone, supporting an Egyptian obelisk, and is one of the city's symbols.

Piazza Duomo is not just a historical and architectural gem; it's also a lively gathering place. The square is lined with cafes, restaurants, and shops, and every evening there was some live music from buskers artists, we were always stopping by and enjoying the music.

Around Piazza Duomo there are other charming squares, such as Piazza Università and Piazza Stesicoro, each offering its unique ambience. The streets in the city centre are lined with cafes, gelaterias, and shops, where you savour local delicacies like arancini, cannoli, cassata or ice cream.

A thing that I miss about living out of Italy is the aperitif, for my girlfriend it was a wonderful discovery, she loved it from the first time. Sundays aperitifs in Italy are a must, and I miss them a lot, gathering with friends, snacking, drinking a Spritz and chatting is what I crave. Our favourite place for aperitif in Catania was Vermut, my girlfriend liked the plate with cheese and cured meats, but also potatoes and tostadas were delicious.

On Monday we decided to visit the main market in the city. Catania is renowned for its lively street markets, where you can explore a colourful array of fresh produce, seafood, and traditional Sicilian goods. Fera o Luni is a longstanding and popular open-air market that plays a significant role in the daily life of Catania. The market is set up in various squares and streets within the historic city centre, particularly in the area around Piazza Carlo Alberto and Piazza Stesicoro.

The market is a vibrant showcase of Sicilian culture, offering diverse products, including fresh fruits and vegetables, local cheeses, cured meats, fish, olives, nuts, spices, and traditional Sicilian sweets. Strolling through the market, you'll find various colours and aromas that create a sensory-rich experience.

In addition to the food offerings, Fera o Luni also features stalls selling clothing, accessories, household items, and handmade crafts. I suggest checking out this part, particularly the second-hand clothes stands, where you can find very cheap and nice items, I know that my friends come here regularly to buy groceries. We used this opportunity to buy gifts to bring back to Hungary, like cheese, dried tomatoes and sweets.

The name "Fera o Luni" is in Sicilian dialect, translating to "Fair on Monday" in English, reflecting the market's historical significance as a weekly event taking place on Mondays, even if it is open every day except Sundays. The market provides a snapshot of Sicilian daily life and fosters a sense of community among residents.

If you have read my other posts you know that I always visit markets, I love them, and I think that they are an opportunity to deep into a culture, in any country you are they can give you a great sense and genuine perspective of the culture of where you are. Fera o Luni, like all the markets, is not just a place to shop; it's an opportunity to connect with the local culture, taste traditional Sicilian flavours, and witness the lively spirit of Catania.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time and money, because it is costly, to do an excursion to Etna, which is an integral part of the region's landscape and cultural identity. Its constantly smoking summit, with periodic eruptions of varying intensity, adds awe and danger to the region. The city, situated at the foot of Etna, has experienced the destructive forces of volcanic activity over the centuries. Despite the challenges, the resilient spirit of Catania prevails, and the city has been repeatedly rebuilt.

The presence of Mount Etna not only shapes the physical environment but also influences the local culture, traditions, and cuisine. The volcanic soil is ideal for vineyards, and the region produces excellent wines.

Exploring Catania was a nice experience, it was like being a local and a tourist at the same time. I liked the city, its vibes, and discovering new things along with appreciating others that I realized I was missing.

As I mentioned before, we also visited Taormina and Siracusa. Do not miss the next posts where I will write about the first one and show you pictures!

See you next week,

Flavio