Riding the route of the waterfalls

Adventure sports and legends in Baños-Ecuador.

I am in Ecuador with Fernanda. We mainly stay in Riobamba, the city where her family lives. From there, we travel to other cities and parts of the country. We visited Quito, and I started to write about Baños in the previous post.

We spent three days in the city and on the second day we did the Ruta de las Cascadas. We rented bicycles in Baños and rode down the mostly downhill route. We did it to have the flexibility to stop at various waterfalls and viewpoints. The route is generally safe for cyclists, with dedicated bike lanes for parts of the journey, and the rental shop in Baños, which we checked the day before, provided us with information and maps to guide the way.

La Ruta de las Cascadas (The Waterfall Route) is one of the most popular and scenic routes in Baños, renowned for its impressive waterfalls, lush valleys, and adventurous activities. This 18-kilometer route takes you through the beautiful Andean landscapes that descend into the Amazon Basin, offering spectacular views, exhilarating stops, and a range of outdoor experiences. You can experience La Ruta de las Cascadas by bike, car, or guided tour, each allowing a different way to explore the route’s natural beauty and thrill.

On our way we stopped several times, the first was to see the Agoyán Waterfall, the first significant waterfall on the route and one of the tallest, located about 7 km from Baños. Here, the Pastaza River plunges in a powerful display. There is also a cable car, known as a tarabita, across the river for a close view of the falls and the surrounding valley, offering a thrilling perspective of the canyon and cascading waters below.

The second stop was to admire Manto de la Novia (Bride’s Veil), a waterfall famous for its twin cascades, which resemble a bride’s veil flowing down the cliffside. Also here you can cross the river by cable car, suspended over the rushing waters and lush vegetation, or stop for photos and admire the falls from several viewpoints. This site is especially popular for its romantic scenery and panoramic views.

The attraction I was waiting to see, and the main one of the Ruta de las Cascades is Pailón del Diablo (The Devil’s Cauldron), one of Ecuador's most famous waterfalls, it is known for its immense power and unique beauty, Pailón del Diablo is a must-see destination. The waterfall’s name comes from the swirling, thunderous pool at the base of the falls, which some say resembles a boiling cauldron.

Pailón del Diablo is formed by the Río Verde, which flows from the Andean highlands and rushes down through lush, forested canyons. The waterfall is approximately 80 meters (262 feet) high, and its impressive volume of water crashes down with incredible force, creating a loud roar and a perpetual mist that fills the surrounding area. The falls are set against steep rock cliffs covered in dense vegetation, which add to the mystical ambience of the site.

We got up close to Pailón del Diablo by following a network of trails and pathways that led to various viewpoints. The main trail descends into the canyon, and as you approach the waterfall, the sound intensifies and the mist thickens, creating an exciting and immersive experience. There are multiple ways to experience the falls, platforms closer to the waterfall allow you to stand almost directly beside the rushing water, where the force and spray create an exhilarating experience. These platforms offer a fantastic opportunity for close-up photos and a firsthand feel of the waterfall’s power. One of the unique features at Pailón del Diablo is a narrow, slightly challenging cave path that allows you to crawl behind the waterfall itself. Known as La Grieta del Cielo (The Crack of Heaven), this path requires a bit of agility, as it involves ducking under rock formations to reach a small grotto behind the waterfall. Once behind the falls, you can look out through the powerful water curtain, an unforgettable experience for those willing to make the trek.

As with many natural landmarks in Ecuador, Pailón del Diablo has its share of legends. Some local stories suggest that the devil himself lives in the depths of the pool at the base of the waterfall, hence the name “The Devil’s Cauldron.” Another story says that if you look closely, you might spot an image resembling the face of the devil within the rock formations surrounding the waterfall. These legends add an air of mystique to the site, and many locals view the waterfall with a mix of awe and reverence.

After the Pailon del Diablo, we decided to buy a ride back to Baños with a truck, where we met a French couple who was travelling in Ecuador for 5 weeks, we had a nice conversation with them. We didn’t complete la ruta de las cascades, because there was another waterfall to see, Machay Waterfall, also known as El Columpio de la Esperanza (Waterfall of Hope), this waterfall is accessible by hiking down a path surrounded by lush vegetation.

I have to say that this is the dry season and a drought period, so all the waterfalls can have much more water, and I can’t imagine how powerful the Pailon del Diablo can be during the wet season.

La Ruta de las Cascadas combines the best of both worlds for visitors looking for adventure and relaxation. The scenic route winds through Ecuador's lush landscapes, offering peaceful waterfalls for rest and rejuvenation, alongside adrenaline-fueled activities for those seeking an extra thrill. This route through Baños is a remarkable way to experience the diverse natural beauty of the region and a perfect escape for anyone who loves waterfalls, adventure, and the outdoors.

I think Pailon del Diablo is one of my favourite places in Ecuador. I enjoyed biking la Ruta de las Cascadas, it was a great day and we still had another day to explore a different part of Baños.

See you soon,

Flavio