The past and the present in Otavalo - Ecuador

Plaza de los Ponchos, one of the most famous indigenous markets in South America

I am in Ecuador, with Fernanda, and we mainly stay in Riobamba, the city where her family lives. From there, we travel to other cities and parts of the country. Recently, we visited the capital, Quito, and we spent five days there. In the previous article, I wrote about our free walking tour on the first day.

On the second day, we visited a city near Quito, Otavalo. We went there with Estefy, Fernanda’s friend, and her family. They were so kind to give us a ride and offer us lunch. I’m always surprised by the kindness and friendliness of the Ecuadorian people.

Estefy and Fernanda became friends in Budapest, they were roommates at the dormitory of the University where they were studying, now Estefy is a PhD student in Quito.

Otavalo is a vibrant town in the Andean highlands of northern Ecuador, about 90 kilometres north of Quito. Nestled in a valley surrounded by volcanic peaks, it sits at an elevation of around 2,500 meters (8,200 feet) above sea level. Otavalo is known for its rich cultural heritage, scenic beauty, and thriving Indigenous market.

The town is home to the Otavaleños, one of the most well-known indigenous groups in Ecuador. The Otavaleños have maintained a strong sense of identity and traditions over centuries. They are renowned for their weaving skills, producing high-quality textiles such as ponchos, scarves, and tapestries, often crafted from wool or alpaca fibre. These colourful, intricate designs reflect a mix of traditional and modern influences, passed down through generations.

Many Otavaleños still wear traditional clothing. Men often wear white trousers, dark ponchos, and long, braided hair, a World Press Photo photographer made a reportage about it. Here, women are known for their embroidered blouses, long skirts, and shawls, accessorized with layers of gold-coloured necklaces and beaded jewellery.

Otavalo is surrounded by stunning natural beauty, with several notable attractions nearby. The town is flanked by the dramatic peaks of Imbabura Volcano and Cotacachi Volcano, offering great opportunities for hiking and exploring the highlands.

We planned to visit the market and the Peguche Waterfall, a beautiful waterfall considered sacred by the Otavaleños and an important site for traditional cleansing ceremonies during the Inti Raymi festival, at a short distance from Otavalo. But the weather was bad since the morning, and in the afternoon it rained heavily, so we visited only the market.

The Otavalo Market is one of the most famous indigenous markets in South America and a cultural centrepiece of the town. Known locally as Plaza de los Ponchos, it draws visitors from all over the world for its vibrant array of handcrafted goods, textiles, and traditional items, showcasing the rich artisanal skills of the indigenous Otavaleños.

The Otavalo Market has deep roots in Ecuadorian history, dating back centuries to pre-colonial times when the region’s indigenous people used it as a trading hub. It has grown into an essential part of Otavalo's economy and cultural identity. Today, the market is not just a place to buy and sell; it’s a living expression of indigenous craftsmanship and a key cultural attraction in Ecuador.

Textiles are the market’s most famous offerings, but the market offers a wide variety of crafts and handmade items, like leather goods, such as bags, belts, and sandals, crafted with traditional methods; jewellery, especially pieces made from beads and silver, reflecting Indigenous designs; carvings and artworks, from wooden sculptures to painted ceramics; and musical instruments, like pan flutes and traditional Andean drums.

We decided to go to the market on Saturday, while it operates every day, this day is the most famous and busiest day. On Saturdays, the market expands beyond the central Plaza de los Ponchos to spill over into the surrounding streets and squares, attracting even more vendors and visitors. The Saturday market is not only a place for tourists but also a place where Indigenous people from neighbouring villages come to trade livestock, produce, and daily essentials, creating a lively atmosphere.

As you know, I love markets, and for me visiting these places is not just about shopping; it’s also an opportunity to immerse in a culture. The same is true for the Otavalo Market, you get the chance to be immersed in the Ecuadorian indigenous culture. The market is a gathering place where visitors can interact with artisans and locals, learn about traditional weaving methods, and appreciate the Otavaleños’ deep connection to their heritage.

A walk through the market is a feast for the senses, with stalls displaying a kaleidoscope of colours and a range of textures from soft alpaca wool to finely polished wood. The craftsmanship on display reflects centuries-old techniques passed down through generations.

What I’ve noticed is that bargaining is common in the Otavalo Market, and vendors expect it, and from my experience also in the other markets in the country is the same.

Despite the bad weather, it was a nice day, I loved exploring the market and meeting Estefy, even knowing that in the next few days, I will have other beautiful places to visit.

See you soon

Flavio