Moved by Hiroshima

The peace memorial park, the night market and the floating shrine.

After saying goodbye to Tami, in autumn 2019, I took a 4-hour bus from Fukuoka to Hiroshima. In the early afternoon, I arrived at my hostel, a traditional room with a tatami instead of a “normal” bed where I spent only one night, and it was a mistake: Hiroshima is beautiful with a lot to offer; now I think that I should have rescheduled my plans and given more time to this city, anyway, I was able to see the most important places.

Hiroshima is renowned for its poignant history and resilience. It gained tragic notoriety as the target of the world's first atomic bomb attack on August 6, 1945, during World War II. The devastating blast instantly obliterated the city, resulting in immense loss of life and widespread destruction. However, Hiroshima's remarkable post-war recovery and its commitment to peace have made it a symbol of hope and reconciliation. Today the city thrives as a vibrant cultural hub, blending modernity with remembrance.

Hiroshima was founded in 1598 in the Ota River delta, from 1868 the city rapidly transformed into a major urban and industrial city. Economically, Hiroshima was a hub for manufacturing, with industries ranging from shipbuilding and steel production to textile manufacturing and sake brewing. The city's strategic port facilitated trade and commerce, contributing to its prosperity and growth.

Since the rebuilding after the war, Hiroshima has become the largest city in the region with around 1.2 million inhabitants.

The Hostel was near the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, so first I went there. Established to commemorate the victims of the atomic bombing the park encompasses several significant monuments and memorials. The park's tranquil ambience, adorned with lush greenery and serene water features, provides visitors with a space for reflection and contemplation. Among its notable features are the Peace Memorial Museum, which offers a comprehensive insight into the events of that fateful day, and the Children's Peace Monument, dedicated to the countless young lives lost to the atomic bomb.

The location of the Peace Memorial Park was once the city's busiest downtown commercial and residential district, the park was built on an open field created by the explosion.

Before walking around the park I decided to visit the Peace Museum, which offers a comprehensive and emotionally charged exploration of the events leading up to and following the bombing. Through a compelling collection of artefacts, photographs, and personal testimonies, visitors are provided with a vivid portrayal of the human suffering and resilience in the aftermath of the attack. Exhibits detail the city's reconstruction efforts, the long-term effects of radiation exposure, and the global quest for nuclear disarmament and peace. The museum's mission extends beyond remembrance, catalyzing dialogue, education, and advocacy, to foster a world free from the threat of nuclear war.

I have to admit that it was difficult to arrive at the end of it, it is emotional and cruel to see what it was like for the city and the citizens during that period, it was, also, a humbling and transformative experience, emphasizing the importance of reconciliation, empathy, and the pursuit of peace.

I had a walk around the park, and just on the other side of the canal, concerning the Peace Memorial Park, there is the Atomic Bomb Dome, or Genbaku Dome, which once was a bustling commercial and administrative building, it was among the few structures left standing near the hypocenter of the atomic bomb explosion. The skeletal remains of the dome, with its crumbling walls and exposed steel framework, serve as a powerful testament to the devastating force unleashed by nuclear warfare. Despite its partial destruction, the A-Bomb Dome has been preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, serving as a sad reminder of the need for peace, reconciliation, and the abolition of nuclear weapons.

After visiting the memorial area I decided to take a stroll around the city, walking without direction I found a night market, with a vibrant tapestry of sights, sounds, and flavours, offering a tempting array of culinary delights and cultural experiences. Located in bustling urban districts, the market comes alive after dusk, with stalls and vendors showcasing an eclectic mix of street food, artisanal crafts, and live entertainment. I was looking for a place for dinner and there I found many local specialities like okonomiyaki (savoury pancakes), oysters, yakitori (grilled skewers), and more while I was immersed in the lively atmosphere of bustling crowds and twinkling lights. Beyond food, the night market also provides an opportunity to discover unique souvenirs, interact with friendly locals, and soak up the dynamic energy of Hiroshima's nightlife.

If you read other articles from this blog you know that I love markets, and this one was the first night market that I visited in my life, I liked the lights, the people, and the energy that I found there. By the way, I didn't eat there, because just outside, I was able to find a nice place where to taste a local speciality, oysters are a staple of Hiroshima's culinary scene, featuring prominently in traditional dishes such as grilled oysters (kaki-yaki), oyster tempura (kaki-fry), and what I ate, oyster rice bowls (kaki-don).

My friend Shinji, when we met him in Tokyo, suggested I visit Miyajima, so the day after I decided to go there. Also known as Itsukushima, Miyajima is a picturesque island located in the Seto Inland Sea, just off the coast of Hiroshima. Renowned for its stunning natural beauty and iconic floating torii gate, Miyajima is a sacred destination steeped in history and spirituality. You can explore the island's lush forests, scenic hiking trails, and tranquil beaches, offering opportunities for peaceful contemplation and scenic vistas. The island's charming town is dotted with traditional ryokans, quaint shops, and delectable eateries serving local delicacies like grilled oysters and momiji manju (maple leaf-shaped cakes). In Itsukushima, "Shrine Island" in Japanese, you can find many temples and shrines.

I reached the Island by public transportation, from Miyajimaguchi I took a JR ferry to the island and the trip took around 10 minutes.

The Island is home to more than a thousand Sika deer that are free to move, they are considered god's messengers, and until 1637, killing one of these was punishable by death. Today they are protected by law and are quite bold, always looking for food from the tourists, for these there are several signs and messages from the speakers to not tease, touch or feed the deer.

Between the harbour and the Itsukushima shrine, there is a market mainly for tourists because there are souvenir shops and street food (oysters in all possible ways). Walking around this market something surprised me, in general, the Japanese are tidy, timid and respectful but in these bazaars, you can see them shouting to catch your attention like Italians do in their markets.

Reaching the Itsukushima Shrine I saw a family doing a shooting with a photographer so I took advantage of the moment and took some pictures. Japanese friends told me it's rare to wear a kimono when you are a kid, it must have been a special occasion.

The Itsukushima Shrine was established in the time of Empress Suiko in 593, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is renowned for its striking vermilion-coloured architecture and its iconic "floating" torii gate, which, unfortunately, was in renovation. The shrine is a symbol of Shinto spirituality and reverence for nature. Set against the backdrop of the Seto Inland Sea, the shrine appears to rise from the water during high tide, creating a mesmerizing spectacle. Itsukushima Shrine is dedicated to the three daughters of the Shinto deity Susano-o no Mikoto, embodying a sense of tranquillity and sanctity that permeates the island.

After I visited the shrine I decided just to walk around and enjoy the nice day and the peaceful feeling, at one point I saw a pagoda up on a hill so I decided to go to check for it. The Five-Story Pagoda of Itsukushima Shrine dates back to the 15th century, it is characterized by its elegant design and towering presence against the backdrop of the island's scenic landscape. Each of its five tiers represents a different element of Buddhist cosmology, embodying a sense of harmony and balance.

Pagodas, in Japanese tō, were originally used as reliquaries, and now are quintessentially Buddhist and an important component of Japanese Buddhist temple compounds, but they are less common on the shrines, and this is one of the exceptions.

Near the pagoda, I found the Hokoku Shrine, also known as Senjokaku Pavilion. Built in the 16th century by the powerful warlord Toyotomi Hideyoshi, this expansive wooden pavilion was intended as a place for Buddhist ceremonies and prayers for fallen soldiers. Its name, "Senjokaku," meaning "pavilion of 1000 tatami mats," reflects its impressive size and scale. The pavilion offers panoramic views of the island's lush forests and the iconic Itsukushima Shrine floating in the distance. I went inside and I admired the intricately crafted wooden beams and columns, adorned with traditional Japanese motifs, I enjoyed it because it relaxed me, it was a peaceful place.

Leaving the shrine and going down the hill I stopped in a ramen restaurant for lunch, ramen is my favourite Japanese food, always delicious and fulfilling. After lunch, I took the ferry back to Hiroshima, got my backpack from the hostel and went to the bus station. I used mainly busses on my trip because they were cheaper than trains and comfortable. The next stop was Osaka, but I will tell you about this city in the next post.

See you soon

Flavio