Rainy days in Quito

Walking tour, old town, plazas, and many churches!

After the trip to Bolivia, Fernanda and I moved to Ecuador. We are mainly in Riobamba, the city where her family lives. From there, we travel to other cities and parts of the country. Recently, we visited the capital, Quito, we spent five days there, and Fernanda’s friend hosted us, and during those days, we also met other friends.

Quito is rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. Nestled high in the Andes mountains at an elevation of about 2,850 meters (9,350 feet), it’s one of the highest capital cities in the world. Quito is renowned for its well-preserved colonial architecture and was the first city to be declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978.

Quito’s history dates back to pre-Columbian times when the indigenous Quitu people inhabited it. It later became an important city within the Inca Empire. The Spanish founded modern Quito in 1534, and the city became a centre of colonial power, which is reflected in its architecture and layout.

Due to its high altitude and location near the equator, Quito has a mild climate year-round, often described as "eternal spring." During the days we were there it was raining all the afternoons and nights, so we were planning our days in a way to be indoors at a certain hour in the afternoon.

On the first day, we decided to book a free walking tour of the old town. Known as Centro Histórico, it is one of the most well-preserved colonial districts in Latin America and a jewel of Ecuador’s capital city.

The Old Town’s layout, with narrow, cobbled streets and grand plazas, reflects its Spanish colonial origins. Many of the buildings date back to the 16th and 17th centuries, blending Baroque, Moorish, and indigenous styles. The area is packed with historic churches, monasteries, plazas, and museums, making it a treasure trove of architectural wonders.

Strolling through Quito’s Old Town is like stepping back in time. The streets are alive with the sound of church bells, street vendors selling traditional foods like empanadas de viento and helados de paila, and the sight of locals going about their daily routines. The area’s charm comes not only from its grand buildings but also from its vibrant street life. You’ll find artisanal shops, small markets, and cafés tucked into the centuries-old architecture.

The walking tour started at 2:30 pm, and it was 3 hours long, we were just 3 participants, me, Fernanda and a German guy. We started from the Central Market (Mercado Central) a bustling and vibrant hub of local culture, commerce, and cuisine. Known for its fresh produce, traditional dishes, and lively atmosphere, it offers a glimpse into the daily lives of Quiteños and a taste of Ecuador’s rich culinary heritage.

The Central Market has been a key part of Quito’s commercial life for over a century. While the current building was modernized in the mid-20th century, it retains much of its traditional charm, reflecting the longstanding importance of markets in Andean culture. The market is divided into various sections: fresh produce, meat and seafood, flowers and spices, and prepared foods.

The Central Market, like all the markets around the world, is more than just a place to shop or eat, it’s a cultural experience. The vendors, many of whom have worked in the market for generations, are welcoming and proud of their offerings. Thanks to the guide and one vendor we had the chance to taste some local fruits: naranjilla, pitahaya, tomato de arbol, taxo, and granadilla. The first one was our favourite and it is a sort of tomato, the second is the dragon fruit, and the last two are part of the passion fruit family.

When we left the market we walked in the way of the Teatro Sucre, one of the most important and historic theatres in Quito. This neoclassical gem is renowned for its architecture, rich cultural heritage, and significant role in the performing arts scene of Ecuador.

Teatro Sucre was inaugurated on January 1, 1886, and was originally named Teatro del Pueblo (The People's Theater). It was designed by the Italian architect Francesco F. B. B. De Marco, who incorporated a neoclassical style that was popular in Europe at the time.

From the theatre, we walked towards the main square, stopping at several places where we tasted Canelazo, a local alcoholic drink made with cinnamon, chocolate, and a particular beer made with passion fruit and chilli.

The main square in Quito is Plaza Grande, officially known as Plaza de la Independencia (Independence Square), which is surrounded by significant historical buildings and imbued with political, cultural, and historical relevance.

Plaza Grande has been a focal point of public life in Quito since the city’s colonial era. Originally laid out in the 16th century, it was designed following Spanish colonial town planning, which placed the main plaza at the centre of civic and religious life.

Plaza Grande is not just a historical site, it’s a living, breathing part of Quito’s daily life. The square is often filled with people, from government workers and political figures to tourists, street vendors, and local families. The gardens, benches, and walkways provide a peaceful environment where locals relax, chat, or simply enjoy the view of the grand architecture surrounding them.

On the square there is the Quito Cathedral, we visited its chapel known as the Church of the Tabernacle (Iglesia del Sagrario), one of the most significant and architecturally stunning religious buildings in the city’s historic centre. This chapel is renowned for its exquisite interior, intricate carvings, and its important role in Quito’s religious life.

The church was built in the 17th century during Quito’s colonial period, a time when the city was developing into a key religious and political centre in Spanish South America.

The interior of the Church of the Tabernacle is lavishly decorated, showcasing the artistic craftsmanship of Quito’s Escuela Quiteña (Quito School of Art), which flourished during the colonial era. This artistic movement combined Spanish Baroque styles with indigenous influences, resulting in a unique and ornate aesthetic.

The tour ended in Plaza San Francisco, one of the most iconic and historic squares in Quito. This expansive plaza is home to the San Francisco Church and Convent, one of the largest and oldest religious complexes in Latin America. With its rich history, stunning architecture, and vibrant atmosphere, Plaza San Francisco offers a glimpse into Quito’s colonial past and its cultural vibrancy.

Plaza San Francisco has been a central gathering place for centuries. Its origins date back to pre-Columbian times, when the site was part of the indigenous Quitu settlement, and used as a marketplace. After the Spanish conquest in the 16th century, the area was transformed into a colonial square, centred around the San Francisco Church and Convent, which was founded in 1535, just a year after Quito’s official founding.

The San Francisco Church and Convent dominate the plaza with their impressive colonial architecture. This massive complex, which covers over three hectares, took nearly 150 years to complete, resulting in a unique blend of architectural styles, including Baroque, Mudéjar, and indigenous influences. The exterior, with its twin bell towers and imposing stone façade, reflects the grandeur of Spanish colonial design.

The church’s interior is equally awe-inspiring, with its intricately carved altars, gilded in gold leaf, and elaborate woodwork. The main altar is a masterpiece of colonial art, dedicated to Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, and surrounded by statues of saints and angels.

The tour finished here, at the entrance of the church because it started raining, we waited there a bit before moving to a cafe, to have the classical coffee and empanada Ecuadorian break. Later when the rain stopped we met with Fernanda’s friend for dinner in a place with a beautiful view.

This was the only time we visited the city at night, as part of the city centre is not safe when it gets late. Fortunately, Fernanda and her friend knew where to go, but in the next few days, we preferred to be at home after dark, also because it was raining. Despite this, I never felt unsafe, even if I feel safer in Riobamba, I enjoyed visiting downtown and the night view of the city, and still, it was the first day, with a lot of things coming up the days after.

See you soon,

Flavio